29 July 2019

8 micro trends from Paris Fashion Week Men’s

Last month’s instalment of PFW Men’s was a pretty impressive affair with floral blooms at Virgil Abloh’s Louis Vuitton, tapestry textures at designer-to-watch Emily Bode’s eponymous brand, and of course, Kim Jones’ pink plateau strewn with Dior rubble courtesy of Daniel Arsham. Here, we’ve rounded up the best of the trends to keep an eye on for next spring/summer — think transparent tailoring, clipped in waists and volume —and tiny bags are going nowhere fast.

cinched-in waists at gmbh and rick owens
The Berlin brand known for their cool clubwear aesthetic and the American avant gardist both served tiny, cinced-in waists this season. GmbH tightened their silhouettes with high-waisted sashes that added new found sharpness and sophistication to their youthful attire. Meanwhile, Owens squinched waistlines with narrow string-like belts. And don’t get me started on the mesmerising iridescent leathers.

tiny bags at jil sander
The era of the impractical tiny bag continues, and I couldn’t be more pleased. This season, Luke and Lucie Meier for Jil Sander brought the trend to the menswear runways in the form of miniature tasselled drawstrings and leather pouches. The teeny-tiny handwear was later supplanted by large — and admittedly useful — carry-alls, but the smaller and daintier the better.

spring garlands at louis vuitton
A year since he’s taken the reigns as creative director at Louis Vuitton menswear, Virgil Abloh proves that there is far more to his design credentials than streetwear. Flowers festooned his latest SS20 collection, springing up on handbags or coiled around the neck; embroidered on hemlines and gorgeously smattered on fluid layers. In amongst the rainbow garlands were ice-cream shades, so subtle and soft they could have been whipped from dreams.

transparent suits at ludovic de saint sernin
With the temperatures rising, it can be tricky to decide what to wear to be both smart and cool in the office, so why not opt for a see through suit à la Ludovic de Saint Sernin. The opening transparent number set off a collection punctuated by barely there pants, just skimming the hip bone; rippling, sexy skirts tied at the waist, and a sensual towel skirt that will definitely take you straight from the office to the lake. It’s getting hot in here.

painterly prints at undercover and etudes
Japanese designer Jun Takahashi for Undercover and the Paris brand Etudes looked to the art world for inspiration for their latest collections.The performative portraits from American visionary Cindy Sherman’s seminal Untitled Film Stills series cropped up on blazers, jackets and bags at Takakhashi’s label, whereas the Parisian house teamed up with trendy New York-based painter Chloe Wise, featuring her bright pop art-style painted faces across button-ups, dresses and trousers.

victorian volume at thom browne
There was a helluva lot going on at this season’s Thom Brown show — a pirouetting James Whiteside, the American Ballet Theatre’s principal dancer, candy pinstripes, tiny shorts and matching jockstraps. Amid the painted faces, trompe l’oeil helmets and comical football shoes, there was a lot to appreciate in the artfully constructed Victorian silhouettes — cage crinolines, voluminous hoop skirts and huge bell shaped trousers. The nursery colours and animal patterns elevated the collection to next level fantasy fashion.

kaftans at loewe
For SS20, Jonathan Anderson brought us a vision of a perfect, carefree summer through elegant layers, billowing shirts, and gentile kaftans in tan and candy pink. Lengths were long, suede was widespread and hair was sweetly decorated with tulle and feather fascinators. Hippy fashion got a well needed update.

desert-ready at dior men
It sort of goes without saying that Mr. Kim Jones for Dior Men stole the show this season with is post-apocalyptic pinkscape, complete with a crumbling set designed by multidisciplinary artist, Daniel Arsham. There was much to appreciate — steely Rimowa bags, John Galliano newspaper prints, mirrored sunglasses — but we can’t get enough of the desert hats with detachable neck covers. Incognito never looked more cool.