18 February 2019

NYFW Designers On The Up

After another year of struggle for fashion brands and even more questioning of the relevance of New York Fashion Week, you might be wondering, why are people still launching fashion brands and choosing to show them at New York Fashion Week? I wonder that too sometimes, but they still are. New York may be missing some of its biggest names this season, but their absence has allowed a new guard of designers to step out from their shadow – and boy did they shine. The sartorial ritual takes over the city every year, setting into motion a new cycle of trends that will trickle down throughout fashion for the rest of the year, and below, you’ll find the crème de la crème of the up-and-coming.

Known for gender-fluid tailoring and sustainability, Hungarian designer Sandra Sandor’s collection took influences from 70s interiors and 80s paisley detailing. The signature vegan-leather padded jacket was a standout piece, while her collaboration with the jewellery designer Sophie Monet saw reclaimed wooden hardware on bags and shoes. Her label is known for its masculine shapes, so it was a natural progression to launch a beautifully complementary menswear line this season.
Superstar power from Bella Hadid and Gwendoline Christie modelling, rainbow-coloured dresses, Katie Grand styling: Tomo Koizumi’s buzzy NYFW debut was the talk of the town. The Japanese designer to watch offered pure escapism.

Prairie dresses just got a cool-over, thanks to new cult fashion brand to follow BATSHEVA, which already counts Celine Dion, Natalie Portman and Erykah Badu among its famous fans. Founded in 2016 by New York designer Batsheva Hay, BATSHEVA plays with “American styles of feminine dress – from Victorian to Pioneer; from Housewife to Hippie – by taking elements symbolic of restraint and repression (high collars, voluminous sleeves and skirts) and giving them a modern inflection”. Think ‘80s Laura Ashley model meets Grace Jones, with a hint of Molly Goddard pretty-punk.

NiuNiu Chou, of ERXI X MRHUA MRSHUA, uses Pop Art as an approach to cross borders with fashion. He focuses on “emotions, the five senses, and strives to create trends with his avant-garde fashion.” Based in China, NiuNiu Chou has showcased his AW19 collection as part of the Global Fashion Collection during New York Fashion Week. “This season, I am inspired by oriental fashion culture” he says. “The theme of the show is ‘Silk Road * Beijing Beijing’. I want to tell a story of Oriental artistry. I based my collection on traditional Chinese New Year symbols such as Lu, Shou, Xi, and Cai and I combined them with western symbols like fortune, happiness, and blessing. My designs are funny, stylish, and beautiful.”

The subversive label and design collective – made up of Patric DiCaprio, Bryn Taubensee and Claire Sulliva – creates “fashion fan fiction” while aiming to subvert luxury and tell stories with clothing. A mash-up of high-concept body adornment and art history.