11 December 2017

The Other Day

“A lot of those pictures have crazy stories about them, it would have been interesting to put them into the book but I’m not into words, I do pictures” chirped Quentin de Briey on his book The Other Day. He certainly does do pictures, and he does them well as a matter of fact, with his photographs depicting the recklessness and freedom of a life well-lived. I had a little chat with Quentin about everything from the spontaneity of his work, to provoking emotion through his honest, gritty and intimate images.

4 December 2017

Pink to Make The Women Wink

Painting a utopian world of blush-hued rolling hills and emerald green palm leaves, Jo Butcher's work delves much deeper than an aesthetically pleasing surface level to depict the transcendent joy and overwhelming relief that comes with recovering from mental health issues. With a process that involves curation as much as painting, she melds objects, colours and shapes in a way which represents the way she began to see the world as recovery changed her mindset. Jo had a chat with me about the importance of creating dialogue about mental health, her exploration of the female form and the power of art as a free, forward-thinking platform.

27 November 2017

Comme des Garçons’ Forgotten Magazine

When Six was originally printed in 1988, Rei Kawakubo told the New York Times: “High fashion has to have a mystery about it. This is the next step: visual representation of the collection, purely for image.” Little did she, or anyone for that matter, know what was to follow as the visual manifestation of social media platforms changed how we consume fashion imagery. A decade since it earned its own exhibition, I'm revisiting Six, the bi-annual magazine produced by Comme des Garçons which explores the Sixth Sense.

20 November 2017

10 Quotes That Prove Rick Owens is a Creative Genius

Limboing under the rules and dodging convention like bullets, Rick Owens’ work marries the eerie and the esoteric without compromise. The Californian is the perfect example of a designer who has formed an aesthetic so distinct, that it can be identified as his without so much as a second look. Building a brand and executing his vision with the freedom of independence, he has created a world that combines gothicism and grace.

14 November 2017

19th Century-Style Photographs of West Coast Skaters

With seven years worth of imagery shot over multiple skate parks across the US, Jenny Sampson’s series captures a complex subculture using an equally complex process. To create the portraits in her new book Skaters: Tintype Portraits of West Coast Skateboarders, Sampson used the wet plate collodion process, which was invented in 1851 and knocked the Daguerrotype off the top of the photographic hierarchy.

6 November 2017

Captivating Photos of Malian Youth

Although his studio portraits are amongst some of his better-known works, Malick Sidibé went by the title of “reporter of the youth” due to his dynamic documentation of the cultural and social life of Bamako – his hometown and the capital city of Mali. The Cartier Fondation was the setting for Sidibé’s first-ever solo exhibition outside of Africa in 1995. Now, the Parisian contemporary art space is showcasing over 300 of Malick Sidibé’s energy-inducing photographs in the new exhibition, Mali Twist.

30 October 2017

A Visual Alphabet of Craig Green

After graduating from the Fashion Masters course at Central Saint Martins, Craig Green established his eponymous label in 2012 has been a consistent highlight of London Fashion Week Men’s since Autumn/Winter ’13. Energetically merging concepts of uniform and utility, Green’s cult-like vision leads to dramatic shows that ooze emotion and always feel relevant, whilst staying loyal to his core collection of simple signature garments. The clearest example of this is the brilliantly boxy worker jacket, which has appeared consecutively since the brand’s debut and typifies the functional element of the brand identity. Here, I pictorially present of some of Craig Green's most visually alluring moments and garments.

16 October 2017

The Wise Words of Peter Saville

It's difficult to think of an album designer who has exerted such personality and such a distinct aesthetic as Peter Saville has. Borrowing from Russian constructivism, the New Typography of Jan Tschichold, and Italian futurism amongst other movements, the intrinsic aesthetic that he creatively conjured became a transformative style in itself; as NME writer Paul Morley said of Saville’s covers, “you were tempted to applaud whenever you saw them”. Saville co-founded Factory Records in 1979 and designed album covers that ranged from Joy Division’s Unknown Pleasures to New Order’s Power, Corruption & Lies, many of which transcend 'iconic' status and sit pretty at the top of the design hierarchy.

9 October 2017

Blame It On The Benjamins: Margiela Tabi

In the autumn of 1989, on a neglected playground somewhere on the very edge of Paris, Martin Margiela staged a show like nothing that had come before (or has come after): the critics loathed it and the industry loved it. Gracing the feet of the models were the shoes that have become one of fashion’s most iconic footprints – Margiela’s interpretation of the split-toed Japanese tabi sock, the Tabi boot. Further emphasising the shoe's footprint, Margiela drenched his models in red paint, having them leave a path of red Tabi prints against the white catwalk. Following my first installment of Blame It On The Benajmins which focused on books, I've listed the five Tabi styles I wouldn't hesitate to purchase in a budget-less (and quite frankly preferable) parallel universe.

 

2 October 2017

SHOWstudio Lanvin S/S 18 Panel Discussion

Last week, I returned to SHOWstudio to discuss the Lanvin Womenswear S/S 18 show. Post Alber Elbaz the house has moved from creative director to creative director, with two in two years – first Bouchra Jarrar and now ‘e-couture master’ Olivier Lapidus. Chaired by Lou Stoppard, I was also joined by Central Saint Martins' Honor Rose and Maya Menon, Polimoda's Irene Frosinini and University of the Creative Arts' Roisin O'Hare to talk about how Lanvin can find its place in the digital landscape, the concept of the brand becoming the 'French Michael Kors' and Lapidus' first collection at the helm of the oldest fashion house in France.