16 July 2018

Revisiting Céline Resort 2010

Exactly nine summers ago, Phoebe Philo quietly delivered her debut collection for Céline. It was Resort 2010, showed in a “bare loft space in Chelsea,” as Vogue reported at the time, describing the clothes as "woman-friendly, with lots of great-looking suits, chic cocktail dresses, and fabulous outerwear.” “Fashion has been waiting for some good news, and Phoebe Philo is here to deliver it,” the report went on. One look at the designer’s confident, spot-on debut collection for Céline and it was clear that the house had entered a new era and a reinvention was about to commence.

9 July 2018

Painting Nudes Through the Female Gaze

A voice of the Instagram artist generation, Venetia Berry's work is as powerful on a tiny screen as it is on the canvases piled in her studio. Inspired by the likes of Matisse, Venetia’s art is focused on the beauty of the female form: having admired and cared for the power of women all her life. Now, she's teamed up with Shoreditch concept store Modern Society to create an exclusive 9-piece ceramic collection. Featuring her iconic etched feminine figures, the ceramics are powerful pieces of modern art and encompass everything that is lovely about Venetia Berry and her work. I caught up with her to find out just what it takes to dedicate yourself to the world of art in the cyber age, and how it feels to portray the female nude as a woman in the wild world of now…

2 July 2018

The Future of Fiorucci

Andy Warhol sipping espressos, windows styled by Antonio Lopez, 16-year-old Madonna performing: Fiorucci’s cult New York store in the late 70s was not your average retail experience. It was a gospel of cool; a hub for the creative class who had zero $$$ but turbo drive; a temple of fun during disco’s heyday. The NYC store sadly closed its doors in 1984 and later in the 90s, the brand was name-dropped in Mark Leckey's cult short film Fiorucci Made Me Harcore an absolute ode to British nightlife. Now, 50 years since the first Fiorucci store opened its doors, the fabled fashion brand is enjoying a rebirth after Janie and Stephen Schaffer bought the brand in 2015.

25 June 2018

Inside Studio 54

With his latest documentary Studio 54, filmmaker Matt Tyrnauer delivers a definitive account of the notorious Manhattan club, which opened its doors on April 26, 1977, and closed just 33 months later, mired in scandal and legal complications. But in that brief time, Studio 54 made a seismic impact on late 20th-century society, dragging the queer subculture of disco into the mainstream, and fanning the flames of a nascent obsession with celebrity by establishing itself as an archetypal roaming ground for hedonistic A-Listers and ensuing paparazzi.

18 June 2018

Long Live Print

Against the irrepressible advance of all things digital, it seemed the age of print had reached its denouement, consigned to obscurity and niche peripheries as the online juggernaut brought renowned publications to their knees. Against all odds though, print has not only survived but is flourishing. A new exhibition at Somerset House, Print! Tearing It Up, traces the journey of independent publishing through the 20th century to the present day, situating the success of contemporary titles such as galdem and Thiird within the historical context of magazines as places of dissent and satire.

11 June 2018

A Visual Alphabet of Alexander McQueen

The legacy of Alexander McQueen is almost immeasurable. His disruptive approach to the fashion industry, his ability to channel the most profound notions of philosophy, art and beauty into clothes and his incredible sense of occasion and spectacle made him a designer like no other. More than any other designer to date, his work transcended the functional nature of clothing and elevated it to the highest echelons of conceptual art. His route to the top was long and complex, his friends were many and his inspirations were diverse. In the list below, I explore just some of the ideas, collections, concepts and figures that defined the man and the designer.

4 June 2018

Surprising Similarities Between Schiele and Woodman

At first glance, Egon Schiele and Francesca Woodman are an unlikely match. The former was a painter of contorted, anguished figures working in turn-of-the-century Vienna; while the latter was a photographer of arresting self-portraits navigating the early ’80s New York art scene. Yet, a new exhibition at Tate Liverpool unites these two unexpected artists in a one-of-a-kind show entitled, “Life in Motion: Egon Schiele and Francesca Woodman”. Described as a “close encounter” between Schiele and Woodman, “Life in Motion” initiates a searingly intense dialogue between these two figures, who, as it turns out, have a lot more in common than meets the eye.

28 May 2018

Love Letters to Independent Music Venues

In the past year or so, the UK has seen many of its iconic and seminal springboard music venues sold-off to be flattened of cultural significance and transformed into beige, personality-free residencies. Places of incredible cultural value and history, these grassroots clubs are where the Rolling Stones first plugged in, where The Libertines’ guerrilla gigs ushered in a new era and where today’s music fans are free to socialise and listen to great music all for a very reasonable price tag. Unless something changes quickly, these sonic sanctuaries will be lost forever, and away we go into a future of large, cold, joyless homogeneous O2 style music venues with Carling sponsorship, curfews and plastic-cupped pints at £5.50 a pop. Scandalous is an understatement.

21 May 2018

Father Nature

The baroque feast of Raf Simons’ latest presentation with mountains of fruit and chocolate, breads and cheeses, bottles of wine and artfully arranged floral bouquets, was one of the most discussed sets of the season. It was curated by the Antwerp-based florist and Raf’s long-time collaborator Mark Colle, who magic'd up the boxed-in bouquets at Simons' last show for Jil Sander and the floral walls at Raf’s debut show for Dior. Having created arrangements for Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten, he's become one of the most significant figures in floristry. I had a chat with Mark about his interpretation of a brief of "flemish painting, drugs and techno" and the time he tried to put Raf himself into one of the Dior flower walls.

14 May 2018

A Guide to New York’s Best Record Shops

There’s nothing quite like rifling through tatty 12″s in a damp basement, be it in Amsterdam, Kingston, or a seedy sidestreet in Goa. It’s something to do with the smell, the dust, and the sense of unfettered exploration—that obscure Zambian-disco record you’ve spent however long searching fruitlessly for could be right there. Someone who understands that feeling better than most is Sam Valenti IV, head honcho at record label Ghostly International – which although self-defines as "genreless", the label aims to embody music of electronic methods and humanistic aims. Originally from Detroit and now an honorary New Yorker, Sam takes us on a tour of his favorite places to dig in the Big Apple.